Lee's Travel Guide



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Pages 1–106 (paris.php: boldface)
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The hotel rating symbols are explained at several random points in the text, though not in the introductory section:

“Those with the figure 1 are first-class houses, with 2 second-class. The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of their class.”

A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the text with mouse-hover popups. Missing “from” or “to” mileage numbers have not been individually noted.

Preface
Itineraries
List of Maps
Paris to Marseilles (separate file)
The Riviera (separate file)
Italy and the Alps and General Index (separate file)

Side trips are shown in green text.

map of France

SOUTH OF FRANCE

EAST HALF

GUIDES BY C. B. BLACK.

 

SPAS of CHELTENHAM and BATH, with Maps and Plan of Bath. 1s.

TOURIST’S CAR GUIDE in the pleasant Islands of JERSEY, GUERNSEY, ALDERNEY and SARK. Illustrated with 6 Maps and Plan of the Town of Saint Helier. Second edition. 1s.

CORSICA, with large Map of the Island. 1s.

BELGIUM, including Rotterdam, Flushing, Middelburg, Schiedam and Luxembourg. Illustrated by 10 Plans and 5 Maps. 2s. 6d.

NORTH FRANCE, LORRAINE AND ALSACE, including the Mineral Waters of Contrexéville, Vittel, Martigny, Plombières, Luxeuil, Aix-la-chapelle, etc. Illustrated with 5 Maps and 7 Plans. Third Edition. 2s. 6d.

TOURAINE, NORMANDY AND BRITTANY. Illustrated with 14 Maps and 15 Plans. Eighth edition. 5s.

The above two contain the North Half of France; or France from the Loire to the North Sea and from the Bay of Biscay to the Rhine.

THE RIVIERA, or the coast of the Mediterranean from Marseilles to Leghorn, including Lucca, Pisa and Florence. Illustrated with 8 Maps and 6 Plans. Second edition. 2s. 6d.

FRANCE—South-East Half—including the whole of the Valley of the Rhône in France, with the adjacent Departments; the Valley of the Upper Loire, with the adjacent Departments; the Riviera; the Passes between France and Italy; and the Italian towns of Turin, Piacenza, Modena, Bologna, Florence, Leghorn and Pisa. Illustrated with numerous Maps and Plans. Fourth edition. 5s.


From “Scotsman,” June 2, 1884.

C. B. Black’s Guide-books have a character of their own; and that character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in which only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not ‘get up’ the places as a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common mistakes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest apt to be overlooked by the hurried observer.

THE

SOUTH OF FRANCE

EAST HALF

INCLUDING THE VALLEYS OF

THE RHÔNE, DRÔME AND DURANCE

the BATHS of

VICHY, ROYAT, AIX, MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE

THE WHOLE OF THE

RIVIERA FROM CETTE TO LEGHORN

WITH THE INLAND TOWNS OF

TURIN, BOLOGNA, PARMA, FLORENCE AND PISA

AND

THE PASSES BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY

Illustrated with Maps and Plans

FOURTH EDITION

C. B. BLACK

EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK
1885


Printed by R. & R. Clark, Edinburgh.

v

PREFACE.

This Guide-book consists of Routes which follow the course of the main Railways. To adapt these Routes as far as possible to the requirements of every one the Branch Lines are also pointed out, together with the stations from which the Coaches run, in connection with the trains, to towns distant from the railway. The description of the places on these branch lines is printed either in a closer or in a smaller letter than that of the towns on the main lines.

Each Route has the Map indicated on which it is to be found. By aid of these maps the traveller can easily discover his exact situation, and either form new routes for himself, or follow those given.

The Arrangement of the Routes is such that they may be taken either from the commencement to the end, or from the end to the commencement. The Route from Paris to Marseilles, for example, does equally well for Marseilles to Paris.

The Distance of towns from the place of starting to the terminus is expressed by the figures which accompany them on each side of the margin; while the distance of any two towns on the same route from each other is found by subtracting their marginal figures on either side from each other.

In the Description of towns the places of interest have been taken in the order of their position, so that, if a cab be engaged, all that is necessary is to mention to the driver their names in succession. Cabs on such occasions should be hired by the hour. To guard against omission, the traveller should underline the names of the places to be visited before commencing the round. In France the Churches are open all the day. In Italy they close at 12; but most of them reopen at 2 P.M. All the vi Picture-Galleries are open on Sundays, and very many also on Thursdays. When not open to the public, admission is generally granted on payment of a franc.

In “Table of Contents” the Routes are classified and explained. For the Time-tables recommended, and for the mode of procedure on the Continental Railways, see “Preliminary Information.”

Before commencing our description of the Winter Resorts on the Mediterranean, with the best routes towards them, let it be clearly understood that not even in the very mildest of these stations is it safe for the invalid to venture out either in the early morning or after sunset without being well protected with warm clothing; and that, even with this precaution, the risk run of counteracting the beneficial influences of a sojourn in these regions is so great as to render it prudent to determine from the first to spend those hours always within doors. On the other hand, it is most conducive to health, during the sunny hours of the day, to remain as much as possible in the open air, walking and driving along the many beautiful terraces and roads with which these places abound; and if the day be well employed in such exercise, it will be no great hardship to rest at home in the evening. Nor is it necessary to remain in the same town during the entire season; indeed a change of scene is generally most beneficial, for which the railway as well as the steamers affords every facility. “I would strongly advise every person who goes abroad for the recovery of his health, whatever may be his disease or to what climate soever he may go, to consider the change as placing him merely in a more favourable situation for the removal of his disease; in fact, to bear constantly in mind that the beneficial influence of travelling, of sailing, and of climate requires to be aided by such dietetic regimen and general mode of living, and by such remedial measures as would have been requisite in his case had he remained in his own country. All the circumstances requiring attention from the invalid at home should be equally attended to abroad. If in some things greater latitude may be permitted, others will demand vii even a more rigid attention. It is, in truth, only by a due regard to all these circumstances that the powers of the constitution can be enabled to throw off, or even materially mitigate, in the best climate, a disease of long standing.

“It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist so strongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I have witnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not to deem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter of surprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner in which many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which they left their own country—the recovery of their health. This appeared to arise chiefly from too much being expected from climate.

“The more common and more injurious deviations from that system of living which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet, exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called ‘sight-seeing,’ frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keeping late hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climate promised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence was counteracted by the operation of these causes.” —Sir James Clark on the Sanative Influence of Climate.

SEE MAP PAGE 27, AND MAP ON FLY-LEAF.

Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay at some of the baths, such as Vichy (p. 359), Vals (p. 93), Mont-Dore (p. 378), Bourboule (p. 383), Aix-les-Bains (p. 283), Bourbon-l’Archambault (p. 357), or Bourbon-Lancy (p. 358). If at the eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from Savona (pp. 209 and 183), or from Genoa (pp. 212 and 279) to Turin (p. 292). From Turin a short branch line extends to Torre-Pèllice (p. 305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian valleys.

If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long, a halt may be made for the night at Modane (p. 290); where, however, on account of the elevation, 3445 ft., the air is generally rather sharp and bracing.

viii

From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the baths is by the valley of the Rhône (map, p. 27), in which there are many places of great interest, such as Arles (p. 68), Avignon (p. 58), Orange (p. 51), and Lyons (p. 29). From Lyons take the western branch by Montbrison (p. 349) for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For Aix-les-Bains take the eastern by Ambérieux (p. 281) and Culoz (p. 282). From Avignon, Carpentras (p. 54), Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98), Montélimart (p. 48), La Voulte (p. 82), Crest (p. 46) and Grenoble (p. 324), interesting and picturesque excursions are made. From Carpentras Mont Ventoux (p. 56) is visited. From La Voulte, Ardechè (p. 45) is entered. From Crest diligences run to the towns and villages between it and Aspres (pp. 47 and 345). From Grenoble the roads and railways diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the western Alps and to the mountain passes between France and Italy.

None should go abroad without a passport. Even where several are travelling together in one party, each should have his own passport. They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great use.

The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and English cost per day from 12 to 22 frs., and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs., including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels of the other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9 frs. per day. Meat breakfast, 2 to 3 frs.; dinner, 3 to 4 frs.; service, ½ fr.; “café au lait,” with bread and butter, 1½ fr. The omnibus between the hotel and the station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most cases loads and unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he expects a small gratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quantity of bags and trunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1½ to 2 frs. each, and although the conductor does not unload the luggage he expects a gratuity.

Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When a stay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggage should be left in depôt at the station. Some companies charge 1, others 2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See “Railways” in “Preliminary Information.”

C. B. B.

ix

PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.

THE LANDING-PLACES ON THE FRENCH SIDE
OF THE CHANNEL.

The six principal ports on the French side of the English Channel connected by railroad with Paris are:—

Dieppe—distant from Paris 125 miles; passing Clères Junction, 100 m.; Rouen, 85 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest, Saint Lazare. Time, 4½ hours. Fares—1st class, 25 frs.; 2d cl. 19 frs.; 3d cl. 14 frs.

London to Paris via Newhaven and Dieppe (240 miles):—tidal; daily, except Sunday, from Victoria Station and London Bridge Station. Fare—1st class, 31s.; 2d cl. 23s.; 3d cl. 16s. 6d. Sea journey, 60 miles; time, 8 hours. Time for entire journey, 16 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, Gare St. Lazare, Rue St. Lazare 110, ancien 124. Bureau spécial, agent, M. Marcillet, Rue de la Paix, 7. A. Collin et Cie, 20 Boulevard Saint Denis.

From Dieppe another line goes to Paris by Arques, Neufchâtel, Serqueux, Forges-les-Eaux, Gournay, Gisors, and Pontoise. Distance, 105 miles. Time by ordinary trains, 5 hours 10 minutes. Fares—1st class, 21 frs.; 2d, 15½ frs.; 3d, 11¼ frs. Arrives at the St. Lazare station of the Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest.

From Tréport a railway extends to Paris by Eu, Gamaches, Aumale, Abancourt, Beauvais, and Creil. Distance, 119¼ miles. Time, 8 hours 40 minutes. Fares, 1st class, 24 frs.; 2d, 18 frs.; 3d, 13 frs. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. There are few through trains by this line.

BOULOGNE—distant 158 miles from Paris; passing Montreuil, 134 m.; Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 4½ hours. Fares—1st class, 31 frs. 25 c.; 2d cl. 23 frs. 45 c.; 3d cl. 17 frs. 20 c.

London to Paris, via, Folkestone and Boulogne (255 miles):—tidal route; from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. Express trains daily to Folkestone, and from Boulogne, first and second class. Sea journey, 27 miles; time of crossing, 1 hour 40 minutes. Fares from London to Paris by Boulogne—1st class, 56s.; 2d cl. 42s. Time for the entire journey, 10 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to the railway station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord.

x

CALAIS—185 miles from Paris; by Boulogne, 158 m.; Montreuil, 134 m.; Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 5½ hours. Fares—1st class, 36 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.

London to Paris, via Dover and Calais (mail route, distance 283 miles);—departing from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. Sea journey, 21 miles; time about 80 minutes. First and second class, express. Fares—60s.; 2d cl. 45s. Total time, London to Paris, 10 hours. Luggage is registered throughout from London, and examined in Paris. Only 60 lbs. free. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply at the railway station of the Chemins de Fer du Nord.

CALAIS—204 miles from Paris; by Saint Omer, 177 m.; Hazebrouck, 165 m.; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 7 hours 40 minutes. Fares—1st class, 36 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.; 3d cl. 20 frs. 10 c.

DUNKERQUE—190 miles from Paris; by Bergues, 185 miles; Hazebrouck, 165 m., where it joins the line from Calais; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens, 81 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 10½ hours. Fares—1st class, 37 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 28 frs. 15 c.

England and Channel, via Thames and Dunkirk (screw):—tidal; three times a week from Fenning’s Wharf. Also from Leith, in 48 to 54 hours.

LE HAVRE—142 miles from Paris; by Harfleur, 138 m.; Beuzeville Junction, 126 miles; Bolbec-Nointot, 123 m.; Yvetot, 111 m.; Rouen, 87 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Arrives, as from Dieppe and Cherbourg, at the station of the Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, No. 124 Rue St. Lazare. Fares—1st class, 28 frs. 10 c.; 2d cl. 21 frs. 5 c.; 3d cl. 15 frs. 45 c. Time by express, 4 hours 50 minutes, and nearly 3 hours longer by the ordinary trains.

London and Channel, via Southampton and Le Havre:—Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 9 P.M. from Waterloo Station, leaving Southampton 11.45 P.M. Sea journey, 80 m.; time, 8 hours.

CHERBOURG—231 miles from Paris; by Lison, 184 m.; Bayeux, 167 m.; Caen, 149 m.; Mezidon Junction, 134 m.; Lisieux, 119 m.; Serquigny Junction, 93 m.; Evreux, 67 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Time by express, 8½ hours; slow trains, nearly 13 hours.

FRENCH, BELGIAN, AND GERMAN RAILWAYS.

On these railways the rate of travelling is slower than in England, but the time is more accurately kept.

To each passenger is allowed 30 kilogrammes, or 66 lbs. weight of luggage free.

xi
Railway Time-Tables.

Time-tables or Indicateurs. For France the most useful and only official time-tables are those published by Chaix and Cie, and sold at all the railway stations. Of these excellent publications there are various kinds. The most complete and most expensive is the “Livret-Chaix Continental,” which, besides the time-tables of the French railways, gives those also of the whole Continent, and is furnished with a complete index; size 18mo, with about 800 pages. The “Livret-Chaix Continental” is sold at the station bookstalls. Price 2 frs.

Next in importance is the “Indicateur des Chemins de Fer,” sold at every station; size 128 small folio pages, price 60 c. It contains the time-tables of the French railways alone, and an index and railway map.

The great French lines of the “Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest,” of the “Chemins de Fer d’Orleans,” of the “Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à la Méditerranée,” of the “Chemins de Fer du Nord,” and of the “Chemins de Fer de l’Est,” have each time-tables of their own, sold at all their stations. Price 40 c. Size 18me. With good index.

For Belgium, the best time-tables are in the “Guide Officiel sur tous les Chemins de Fer de Belgique.” Sold at the Belgian railway stations. Size 18me. Price 30 c. It contains a good railway map of Belgium.

For Italy, use “L’Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate d’Italia.” Containing excellent maps illustrating their circular tours. Price 1 fr.

In Spain use the “Indicador de los Ferro-Carriles,” sold at the stations. The distances are, as in the French tables, in kilometres, of which 8 make 5 miles. Lleg. or Llegada means “arrival”; Salida, “departure.”

In England consult the “Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway,” sold at the Victoria Station, Pimlico, price 2d.; or those of the London and South-Eastern, 1d.

In the Railway Station.

Before going to the station, it is a good plan to turn up in the index of the “Livret-Chaix Continental” the place required, to ascertain the fare and the time of starting, which stations are supplied with refreshment rooms (marked B), and the time the train halts at each on its way.

On arriving at the station join the single file (queue) of people before the small window (guichet), where the tickets (billets) are sold. Your turn having arrived, and having procured your ticket, proceed to the luggage department, where deposit your baggage and deliver your ticket to be stamped. The luggage tickets are called also “bulletins.”

After your articles have been weighed, your ticket, along with a luggage receipt, is handed you from the “guichet” of the luggage office, where, if your baggage is not overweight, you pay 10 c. or 2 sous. Before pocketing the luggage ticket, just run your eye down the column headed “Nombre de Colis,” and see that the exact number of your articles has been given. The French have a strange way of making the figures 3, 5, xii and 7. Whatever is overweight is paid for at this office; but remember, when two or more are travelling together, to present the tickets of the whole party at the luggage department, otherwise the luggage will be treated as belonging to one person, and thus it will probably be overweight. Another advantage of having the entire number of the party on the “Billet de Bagage” is that, in case of one or other losing their carriage tickets, this will prove the accident to the stationmaster (chef-de-Gare) and satisfy him. If, after having purchased a ticket, the train is missed, that ticket, to be available for the next train, must be presented again to the ticket office, to be re-stamped (être visé).

The traveller, on arriving at his destination, will frequently find it more convenient not to take his luggage away with him; in which case, having seen it brought from the train to the station, he should tell the porter that he wishes it left there. He retains, however, his luggage ticket, which he only presents when he desires his luggage again.

On the Railway.

In the carriage cast the eye over the line as given in our railway map, and note the junctions; for at many of these—such as Amiens, Rouen, Culoz, Macon, etc. etc.—the passengers are frequently discharged from the carriages and sent into the waiting-rooms to await other trains. On such occasions great attention must be paid to the names the porter calls out when he opens the door of the waiting-room, otherwise the wrong train may be taken. To avoid this, observe on our railway map what are the principal towns along the line in the direction required to go; so that when, for example, he calls out, “Voyageurs du Côté de Lyon!” and we be going to Marseilles from Macon, we may, with confidence, enter the train, because, by reference to the map, we see we must pass Lyon to reach Marseilles. The little railway map will be found very useful, and ought always to be kept in readiness for reference.

Buffet means “refreshment-room”; and Salle d’Attente, “waiting-room.”

There are separate first, second, and third class carriages for ladies.

Express trains have third class carriages for long distances.

Railway Omnibuses.

At the stations of the largest and wealthiest towns three kinds of omnibuses await the arrival of passengers. They may be distinguished by the names of the General Omnibus, the Hotel Omnibus, and the Private Omnibus. The general omnibus takes passengers to all parts of the town for a fixed sum, rarely above half a franc; so that, should the omnibus be full, it is some time till the last passenger gets put down at his destination. The hotel omnibus takes passengers only to the hotel or hotels whose name or names it bears.

xiii

CONTENTS.

RAILWAYS, ROADS, and BYE-WAYS in the
SOUTH-EAST of FRANCE, and the MOUNTAIN
PASSES between FRANCE and ITALY.

For the whole of the south-east of France use the time-tables of the “Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à la Méditerranée.” Sold at all their stations, price 8 sous. In Italy use the “Indicatore Ufficiale,” 1 fr. or 1 lira, which gives, besides the time-tables of the railway trains, those also of the steam-trams, which traverse the country in all directions.

In England consult the time-tables of the London and South Eastern Railway, 1d.; or the Continental time-tables of the London, Chatham and Dover Railway, 3d.

  PAGE

PARIS to MENTON by Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, Valence, Avignon, Arles, Rognac, Marseilles, Toulon, Hyères, Cannes, Nice and Monaco (see map on fly-leaf) 1

For practical purposes it is more convenient to divide this long journey into two parts—Paris to Marseilles (p. 1), and Marseilles to Menton (p. 122).

PARIS to MARSEILLES1

The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the most interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood of Paris, of which the most important is Fontainebleau. Dijon and Macon are good resting-places. Lyons is the largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles should, if possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify from this great central railway are

La Roche to Les Laumes by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a coach awaits passengers for Vezelay, containing a grand and vast church 14

xiv

From Auxerre a coach runs to Chablis (p. 14), with its famous wines, passing through Pontigny (p. 16), where Thomas à Becket resided.

Verrey (p. 19) is a good station to alight at, to visit the source of the Seine.

From Dijon (p. 20) southwards to Chagny (p. 24) are the famous Burgundy vineyards.

Chagny to Nevers by Autun, Montchanin and Creusot. Autun (p. 24) is one of the most ancient cities in France. At Creusot (p. 25) are very large ironworks.

Macon to Paray-le-Monial by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial (p. 27) a nun called Alacoque is said to have had several interviews with J. C.

Lyons (p. 29), though a splendid city, ought to be avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an important railway junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is Aix-les-Bains (p. 283). 76 miles S.E. by Rives, Voiron and Voreppe is Grenoble (p. 324). Voiron is the station for the Grande Chartreuse (p. 323). From the station of St. Paul, 113 miles W. by Montbrison (p. 349), is Clermont-Ferrand (p. 369). 89½ miles S.W. by St. Etienne (p. 346) is Le Puy (p. 86). The rail from Lyons along the E. side of the Rhône leads to Avignon (p. 58) and Arles (p. 68); and on the W. side to Nîmes (p. 101). See map, p. 27.

Valence to Grenoble, 62 miles N.E. 44

Valence to Ardèche 45

Crest to Montelimart 46

Crest to Dieulefit by Saou and Bourdeaux 46

Saou is an ancient village curiously situated. Bourdeaux is separated from Dieulefit by a high mountain.

Crest to Aspres, 57 miles E. by Die. This route traverses the whole of the valley of the river Drôme (map, p. 27) 47

Montelimart to Grignan, where Madame Sévigné died 49

La Croisière to Nyons, 29½ miles E. (p. 50). The climate of Nyons is mild and well suited for those who leave the Riviera early. From Nyons another coach goes on to Serres, 41 miles E. (p. 51) on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble (map, p. 27).

xv

Sorgues to Carpentras, 10½ m. east 54

Carpentras makes excellent headquarters for visiting a great variety of places in the neighbourhood, among others Mont Ventoux (p. 56) and Vaison (p. 53).

Avignon to Nîmes by the famous Roman aqueduct called the Pont-du-Gard 64

Avignon to the Fontaine of Vaucluse, where Petrarch lived for some time 64

Avignon to Manosque by Apt (map, p. 27) 66

Avignon to Miramas by Cavaillon 66

Tarascon to St. Remy and Les Baux 67

Arles to Fontvieille by Mont-Majour. Arles has magnificent Roman remains 71

Arles to Port St. Louis at the mouth of the Rhône 72

Arles to Port-Bouc, across the Camargue, by the canal steamboat 76 and 72

Arles to Aigues-Mortes by St. Gilles and Lunel 72

Lunel to Montpellier 73

Rognac to the aqueduct of Roquefavour, which brings water to Marseilles from the Durance 77

Rognac to the baths of Aix-en-Provence. Aix has communication by rail and by coach with very many of the neighbouring towns 78

LYONS to NÎMES by the west side of the Rhône (map, p. 27) 81

Peyraud by rail to Annonay, and thence by coach to St. Etienne 81

La Voulte to Le Cheilard, the chief diligence centre in the department of Ardèche (map, p. 46) 83

The road to the source of the Loire (map, p. 85) 83

Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Béage (map, p. 85) 84

Le Béage to Le Puy by Le Monastier (map, p. 46) 85

Le Puy to Langogne by Pradelles (map, p. 46) 88

Le Puy to Langeac by St. Georges (map, p. 46) 89

xvi

Darsac to Chaise-Dieu (map, p. 46) 89

Chaise-Dieu to Thiers by Arlanc and Ambert (map, p. 27) 90

Langeac to Monistrol and to Saugues. Coach from Monistrol station to Le Puy (map, p. 46) 91

Le Pouzin to Privas (map, p. 27) 92

Teil to Alais, 62 miles S.W. (map, p. 27) 93

This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals and the interesting volcanic mountains in the neighbourhood.

Prades to Langogne by Mayres and Pradelles (map, p. 27) 94

Prades to Montpezat. From Montpezat the source of the Loire (p. 84) is visited 95

Montpezat to Le Puy 96

Ruoms to Vallon and the fine natural bridge called the Pont d’Arc (map, p. 27), approached also from Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98) 96

Pont d’Avignon, station on W. bank of the Rhône, for Avignon 99

Remoulins to the Pont-du-Gard 99

Nîmes To Millau by Vigan (map, p. 27) 105

THE RIVIERA.

The Riviera. Hotels, productions, climate 107

Marseilles. Hotels, trams, sights, excursions 111

MARSEILLES to MENTON. The French Riviera 122

Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty little towns, of which the most important is La Seyne (p. 123). From Toulon omnibuses and diligences run to the neighbouring villages and to the more distant towns in the interior. The most start from the Place d’Italie (pp. 124 and 129).

Toulon to Dardenne from the “Place” to the W. of the Place Puget (p. 128), to Hyères from the Place Puget (pp. 124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the Place d’Italie (p. 128), to Le Pradet from the Place d’Italie (p. 128).

Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by Belgentier, by diligence. As far as Meounes the road traverses a picturesque country (p. 129), to Collobrières by La Crau and Pierrefeu (p. 130).

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Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier (p. 127), to the Iles d’Hyères or d’Or (pp. 124, 131).

The Iles d’Or. Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Ile du Levant 131

Toulon to Hyères 132

Hyères. Hotels, cabs, drives, stage-coaches, excursions, productions, climate 133

Hyères to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of Giens (p. 140); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana (p. 141); to Bormes and Lavandou (p. 142); by coach to St. Tropez (p. 134); whence steamer to St. Raphael (p. 147); or coach to Le Luc (p. 144).

La Pauline. Diligence and train to Hyères 142

Carnoules. Carnoules to Gardanne by rail, passing Brignoles and Ste. Maximin 142

Le Luc. Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, across the Maure mountains 144

Les Arcs to Draguignan by rail. From Draguignan diligences start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and Salernes, and correspond at these towns with other diligences 145

Cannes to Auribeau, (p. 156), to Cannet, (p. 154), to Cap d’Antibes (p. 154), to Castelaras (p. 156), to Croisette (p. 154), to Croix des Gardes (p. 155), to Estérel (p. 155), to Grasse (p. 160), to the Iles de Lerins (p. 156), to Mougins (p. 156), to Napoule and Theoule (p. 155), to Pégomas (p. 156), to St. Cassien (p. 155), to Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and Californie (p. 152).

Grasse to Cagnes by Le Bar, the Pont-du-Loup and Vence (p. 163), to Digne by St. Vallier and Castellane (p. 165), Digne to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx and Manosque (p. 166).

Nice to St. Martin Lantosque by coach, and thence to Cuneo by the Col di Finestra 180

Nice to Puget-Theniers and Saint Sauveur by coach. From St. Sauveur an excellent road by the side of the Tinée ascends to St. Etienne; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio (map, p. 165). 182

Nice to Cuneo by the tunnel of the Col di Tenda 182

Savona to Turin by Carru, Bra, Cavallermaggiore and Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N. 183

Beaulieu to Port St. Jean and the Lighthouse—a pleasant walk 185

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Monte Carlo to Nice by the coast-road 189

Monaco to La Turbie and the Tête de Chien 191

MENTON to GENOA—the western part of the Italian Riviera, called also the Riviera di Ponente 200

Bordighera, up the valley of the Nervia, to Pigna 201

San Remo to Monte Bignone 205

GENOA to PISA and LEGHORN—the eastern Italian Riviera, or the Riviera di Levante 219

Avenza to Carrara by rail—a very easy and interesting excursion 222

Pisa to Florence by Pontedera and Empoli (map, p. 199) 227

Pisa to Florence by Lucca, Pistoja and Prato 227

Lucca to the Baths of Lucca 230

Florence to Vallombrosa 277

Genoa to Turin by Alessandria—a very interesting railway journey 279

END OF THE RIVIERA.

 

PARIS to TURIN 281

PARIS to MODANE 281

Aix-les-Bains to Geneva by Annecy 286

Modane to Turin 291

Bussoleno to Susa 291

Turin to Torre-Pellice by Pinerolo 305

Torre-Pellice to Mont-Dauphin by the Col de la Croix 306

Perosa to Mont-Dauphin by the Col d’Abriés 307

Perosa to Cesanne by the Col de Sestrières 307

Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin by the Col de la Traversette 308

Cuneo to Barcelonnette (see Barcelonnette to Cuneo) 341

TURIN to FLORENCE by Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna 309

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St. Pierre d’Albigny to Courmayeur by the Little Saint Bernard 320

PARIS to MODANE by Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is the route to take to visit the Grande Chartreuse and the picturesque valleys about the formidable group of the Ecrin mountains 322

Grenoble to Sassenage 327

Grenoble to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans and the Col de Lautaret. A grand mountain road 328

Bourg d’Oisans to La Berarde, at the base of the Ecrin group, by Vosc and St. Christophe 329

Briançon to Mt. Pelvoux by La Bessée and the Val Louise 333, 345

Briançon to Oulx by Mt. Genèvre and Cesanne 333

Grenoble to Corps by La Mure (map, p. 27). From Corps another diligence proceeds to Gap (p. 340). From Corps the pilgrimage is made to N. D. de la Salette 333

Goncelin to Allevard-les-Bains 336

MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban, Sisteron, Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles and Claix (map, p. 27) 338

St. Auban to Digne 339

Digne to Barcelonnette by La Javie and Seyne (map, p. 304) 339

Digne to Barcelonnette by Draix, Colmars and Allos 339

VEYNES to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE station, 51 miles N.E. by rail. Both of these towns are at the French end of several of the important passes between France and Italy 340

Gap to Barcelonnette 341

Barcelonnette to Cuneo (map, p. 27) 341

Gap to Grenoble by Corps (map, p. 304) 342

Mont-Dauphin to Saluzzo (map, p. 304) 344

Paris to Lyons by Saint Etienne (map, p. 27) 346

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Paris to Lyons by Tarare (map, p. 27) 348

Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand by Montbrison (map, p. 27) 349

Paris to Marseilles by Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes (see map on fly-leaf) 351

Moulins to the Baths of Bourbon-l’Archambault by Souvigny and Saint Menoux (map, p. 1) 356

Moulins to the Baths of Bourbon-Lancy by Dompierre and Gilly. Beyond Gilly is Paray-le-Monial (p. 27, map p. 1) 357

St. Germain-des-Fossés to Vichy 359

Clermont-Ferrand to Brive by Laqueuille 376

Laqueuille to the Baths of Mont-Dore and Bourboule 377

Mont-Dore to Issoire by the Baths of St. Nectaire 385

A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude railway station.

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MAPS AND PLANS.

Some full-page maps have been moved to avoid breaking up paragraphs. All links, both here and in the body text, lead to the map itself.

Map references in the text are inconsistent. The “Rhône and Savoy” map was printed twice, between pages 26/27 and 106/107. In the List of Maps it is given as “page 107”; in the text it is randomly cited as “page 27” and “page 26”. “Map. p. 199” and “p. 200” both refer to the Italian Riviera map, also cited twice as “p. 220”. The map of Hyères (p. 129) is twice cited as “p. 177”.

  PAGE

Ardèche, general map of, including the northern part of the department of Drôme and the southern of the Haute-Loire 46

This map contains a large part of the valleys of the Rhône and the Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage, Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon, Valence, La Voulte, etc., the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc.

Arles, a town of great interest 68

Avignon, Plan of 59

Bologna, Plan of 316

Cannes, Environs of 155

Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes.

Cannes, Plan of 149

Corniche Road 185

Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice to Menton, as well as that of the lower and perhaps more beautiful road between Nice and Monte-Carlo, extending along the coast, nearly parallel to the railway.

This map contains also the Environs of Nice, Monaco, and Menton.

Dijon, Plan of 20

Estérel Mountains, or Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes 146

Florence, Plan of 234

The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana up to the Piazza Michelangiolo.

Galleria degli Uffizi 237

The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast edifices on both sides of the Arno; united by long corridors, which from the Uffizi straggle down to the river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace by the upper story of the houses bordering the Via Guicciardini.

Genoa, Plan of 214

Hyères, Environs of 129

As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the same, the environs of both towns are given on the same map.

Italian Riviera, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to Leghorn 199

Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di Levante. The French Riviera is given on the map of the “Rhône and Savoy,” and parts on a larger scale on the maps of the “Corniche Road” “Marseilles to Cannes,” and the “Durance to the Var and San Remo.”

Leghorn, Plan of 226

Lyons, General plan of 30

xxii

Lyons, Partial plan of 33

Marseilles, Plan of 113

Marseilles to Cannes 123

This map shows the position of the towns and villages on the coast and in the interior, the roads between them and the Marseilles canal; which, from the Durance, enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side are given the “Iles d’Or,” called also the “Islands of Hyères,” of which the largest is Porquerolles.

Mont Cenis railway, Plan of 291

This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d’Albigny to Turin by Modane and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to Albertville; whence coach-road to Courmayeur by Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St. Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake Annecy.

Mont-Dore and Bourboule, Map of environs 378

Nice, Plan of 171

Nîmes, interesting Roman ruins 101

Paris to Vichy, Macon, Bourg and Geneva, situated towards the S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen, Lucerne and Interlaken to the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to the N. 1

Pisa, Plan of 224

The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find their way unaided to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo or Cemetery. The frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who have to remain over the night should take one of the hotels close to the station.

Railway Map Fly-leaf

This map shows all the railway routes in France and their correspondence with the railways in Belgium, Prussia, Baden, Switzerland, Italy and Spain. Also the railways on both sides of the Rhine and of the Rhône.

Rhône and Savoy 107

This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France, with the railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon. The Railroads and Passes between France and Savoy. The French Riviera.

Savona to Rapallo 211

Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter stations of Arenzano, Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo.

The Durance to the Var and San Remo 163

This map shows principally the position of the towns in the interior, approached by diligence from Grasse (near Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice. From Nice start the diligences which run between France and Italy.

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The French and Italian Waldensian valleys, with the mountain-passes between them 304

The high volcanic peaks in the department of Ardèche; among which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the source of the Loire 84

The Italian Riviera or north-west Italy, including the railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence 200

The Mouths of the Rhône 66

Showing the position of the canals and of the great lakes in this neighbourhood. The principal towns are Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, Avignon, Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from Marseilles (see pp. 77, 115, and 338). A little farther down the Durance is the commencement of the Craponne canal (p. 66).

The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance, in which are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St. Esprit, Orange, Carpentras, Vaison and other places of interest 56

Thermometer, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale 107

Toulon, Environs of 129

This map will be found very useful in the excursions by the small steamers sailing from the port.

Troyes, Plan of 12

Turin, Plan of 293

Vichy, Plan of 359


CARTE DU JOUR.

The following List contains the explanation of the technical terms of some of the most useful dishes mentioned in the “Cartes du Jour” of the restaurants. Fancy names cannot be translated.

The following section is given exactly as printed. Some items may require added salt.

SOUPS.

Consommé, beef-tea.

Bouillon, broth.

Potage, soup.

Julienne, vegetable soups.

Purée, pease-soup.

Purée, when qualifying a noun, means “mashed,” as—

Purée de pommes, mashed potatoes.

 „ „marron, mashed chestnuts.

BEEF.

Bœuf au naturel, or simply “nature,” plain boiled beef.

Naturel in cookery means “plain.”

Bœuf à la mode, beef stewed with carrots.

Nearly the same as the next.

Bœuf à la jardinière, beef with vegetables.

Aloyau, a sirloin of beef.

Aloyau a la jardinière, sirloin with vegetables.

Aloyau sauté, sirloin in slices.

Sauté in cookery means “sliced.”

Rosbif aux pommes, roast beef with potatoes.

In these lists the words de terre are rarely affixed to pommes.

Bifteck au naturel, plain beefsteak.

 „ aux pommes, with potatoes.

 „ aux pommes sautées, with sliced potatoes.

 „ aux haricots, with kidney beans.

 „ bien cuit, well done.

 „ saignant, under done.

Palais de Bœuf au gratin, broiled ox palate.

Au gratin in cookery means “baked” or “broiled”; when applied to potatoes it means “browned.”

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MUTTON.

Côtelettes de mouton au naturel, plain mutton chops.

  „  „ „ panées, mutton chops fried with crumbs.

  „  „ „ aux pointes d’asperge, mutton chops with asparagus tops.

  „  „ „ à la purée de pommes, mutton chops with mashed potatoes.

Gigot roti, a roast leg of mutton.

Pieds de mouton, sheep’s trotters.

Gigot d’agneau, a leg of lamb.

Blanquette d’agneau, hashed stewed lamb.

Rognons à la brochette, broiled kidneys.

  „ sautés, sliced kidneys.

Etuvé, stewed.

VEAL.

Côtelette de veau, veal cutlet.

Tête de veau en vinaigrette, calf’s head with oil and vinegar.

Oreille de veau en marinade, pickled calf’s ear.

Ris de veau, sweetbread.

Foie de veau, calf’s liver.

Blanquette de veau, hashed stewed veal.

Fricandeau au jus, Scotch collops with gravy.

Jus, gravy.

VEGETABLES.

Pommes de terre, potatoes.

Legumes et fruits primeurs, early vegetables and fruits.

Asperges à la sauce, asparagus with sauce.

Chou, cabbage.

Champignons, mushrooms.

Epinards, spinage.

Fêves de marais, garden beans.

Haricots verts, green kidney beans.

Oseille, sorrel.

Petits pois, green peas.

Jardinière means “dressed with vegetables.”

POULTRY AND GAME.

Poularde, fowl.

Poulet, chicken.

Chapon, capon.

Cuisse de poulet, leg of a chicken.

Des œufs à la coque, boiled eggs.

Dindonneau, young turkey.

Canard, duck.

Perdreau, partridge.

Mauviettes, field-larks.

Alouettes, larks.

Grives, thrushes.

Becasse, woodcock.

Becassine, snipe.

Chevreuil, venison.

Caille, quail.

FISH.

Anguille, eel.

Eperlans, smelts; or, as the Scotch call them, sperlings.

Homard, lobster.

Huitres, oysters.

Merlans, whitings.

Morue, cod.

Raie, skate.

Saumon, salmon.

Sole, sole.

Turbot, turbot.

Frit, fried.

Grillé, done on the gridiron.

DESSERT.

Compote, applied to fruits, means “stewed.”

  „ de pommes, stewed apples.

  „ de pruneaux, stewed prunes.

Beignets de pommes, apple fritters.

  „ „  „ soufflés, puffed apple fritters.

Mendiants, raisins, nuts and almonds.

DRINK.

Vin de Bordeaux, claret.

A bottle of soda-water is called a siphon. The cheap wines ought always to be drunk with it, or with common water.

At even the cheap restaurants palatable wine may be had by paying a little extra.

Frappé, applied to liquids, means “iced.”

Caraffe frappé, iced water.

Vin frappé, iced wine.

The litre of beer is called a canette, and the half-litre a choppe.

The fifth part of a litre of wine is called a carafon, a word often used in the cheap restaurants.







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