Lee's Travel Guide

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Rome Information

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Some helpful information about Rome gathered from various sources
Arrival in Rome, Things to Do, Lodging, Gelato, Dining

These recommendations are from third parties. I do not have any information about these places. Take the recommendations but make allowance for the fact that tastes vary and you may find a different experience than what you read here.

This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Arrival in Rome

You will probably be arriving at the Fiumicino International Airport to which all flights from the United States go. (Fiumicino is also known as the Leonardo DiVinci Airport). The airport is about 20 miles or so south of Rome.

First, there are airport shuttles. Here are a couple of links that might be useful:
AirportShuttle
Rome-Shuttle

Second, there is train service. The train you would want is the EXPRESS train to Stazione Centrale Roma Termini (Central Rome train station, called Termini for short). Be sure not to get on one of the non-express trains that stop at other places.
The express train is just under ten Euro per person. (As of August, 2002)
Once at Termini, you may need a taxi depending on where your hotel is. (There are always plenty of taxis there.) There would be a surcharge for luggage. When you take a taxi, make sure it is one of the official white or yellow taxi's with the "Taxi" sign on top, otherwise you are in for a major rip-off.

Third, if there are three or more, you might be better off arranging for a limo to take you from the airport to the hotel. Here is one that is reported to be very good and very reliable:
RomeLimousines

Fourth, you can take a taxi from the airport to the hotel. As of August of 2002, the cost will be about 50-60 Euro depending on luggage surcharges, time of day, traffic, hotel location, etc. This has probably gone up since then. Again, just like with taxi's at the Termini, do not take any taxi that is not official.

Things to do

These recommendations are from third parties. I do not have any information about these places. Take the recommendations but make allowance for the fact that tastes vary and you may find a different experience than what you read here.

Some tips:

• Most churches are quite dark when you enter them. Some of the churches have coin-operated lights that you can turn on.

Some things to do:

• When in Rome...10 Free Things to do in the Eternal City
• Presto Tours US-based company that arranges small group & private tours in Rome and Italy with their talented and passionate team of guides.
  From the seb site: Presto Tours specializes in small group walking tours in Italy for travelers with curious minds. With a maximum tour group size of 15, we ensure that your learning adventure in Italy remains an intimate, memorable experience.
• Downloadable guides from Schmap
• Rick Steves Podcasts for iTunes<.li>
• Rome Walking Tour: The Heart of Rome from National Geographic
• The Colosseum (Colosseo) can be visited on your own, with or without an audioguide, or through a guided tour. If you wish to go to the Colosseo on your own bring patience. Lines may take a while, so check opening hours and plan accordingly. The Colosseo only accepts cash as payment. No credit cards.
• Enoteca al Parlamento via dei Prefetti 15, Roma. Telephone: 06 6873446 Historical stock of vintage wines... assortment of Bubbling and Champagne... distilled spirits... whisky... Cognac and Armagnac
• Basilica San Clemente via Labicana, 95, Roma. Telephone: 06 7740021 Whether on pilgrimage to Rome or just seeing the sights, you will find that the Basilica of San Clemente is not just another church in Rome, it is unique! Its magnificent frescoes and its twelfth-century mosaic of the Cross as the Tree of Life will engage your mind and heart. You can travel back in time and visit a fourth-century basilica before exploring what was once a pagan temple! Centuries of Christian faith, art and history wait to be discovered!
  An 18th century facade; 900 year old mosaics; a door in the back gives access to a 4th century Christian church which was pillaged by Normans; then down to a 2nd century Mythrian temple which leads to an older labyrinth of Roman streets and buildings.
• Take a bus to the Vatican. You can buy bus tickets at Tabacchii (tobacco shops) then head for the fermata (bus stop.) The sign at the fermata should help you get where you are going.
• Then send your post cards from the Vatican post office (poste Vaticane) which is more reliable than the mail system in Rome. Tip: Send yourself a post card or letter from the Vatican, with a Vatican stamp on it, for a nice souvenir postmarked from the Vatican.
• A suggestion for a walking tour: Start at the Piazza Rotunda where the Pantheon is located and after checking it out walk to the Piazza Navona. Once you have investigated the Piazza Navona, its fountains, churches, etc., walk to Campo dei Fiori. (Another option would be to go to the Campo dei Fiori first thing in the morning to check out the fruit and vegetable market.) Then it's on to Largo Argentina with its 5th century temples, and finally on to Teatro di Marcello

Trastevere

Trastevere is the southwestern portion of Rome, on the other side of the river.

• Polvere di tempo (Powder of Time) — a shop selling "hourglasses, sundials and curious objects."
  Located at via del Moro 59, Trastevere, Roma. Telephone: 0039 06 5880704
• This quaint and unconventional shop, with an interior that suggests the cabin of an old sailing ship, specializes in time-keeping devices — but not clocks or watches — and in all manner of scientific instruments, ancient measuring devices, and old fashioned curiosities. There are hour glasses, globes, candles that reckon time, thermometers, compasses, sundials and leather-bound travel diaries. Everything is handmade or hand embellished by the owner, Adrian Rodriguez
• The church of Santa Maria in Trastevere — 12th-century mosaics inside and on the facade make it well worth a visit. The church was built over a 4th century basilica.
• The octagonal fountain in the piazza is an ancient Roman original that was restored and embellished in the 17th century by Carlo Fontana. In the evenings, the fountain is a popular gathering place for locals. Off the north side of the piazza, a little street is named Via delle Fonte dell'Olio in honor of the oil miracle.
• The facade was restored by Carlo Fontana in the 17th century, but its faded mosaics date from the 12th or 13th centuries. The portico is a 19th-century addition; displayed inside are fragments from the earlier churches, dating from the 4th to 9th centuries. They were found during excavations beneath the 12th-century floor of the church.
• Inside the church are 22 granite columns taken from the ruins of ancient Roman buildings. A Cosmati column to the right of the altar with the inscription FONS OLEI marks the spot of the miraculous flow of oil.
• The restored mosaics on the apse vault and triumphal arch date from around 1140. The triumphal arch depicts the Four Evangelists, the prophets Isaiah and Jeremiah, caged birds representing sin, seven candlesticks, and a Christogram (chi-rho). The apse vault shows the Coronation of the Virgin with saints and Pope Innocent II holding a model of the church.
• The six mosaic panels lower on the apse (between the windows) were made by Pietro Cavallini on the subject of the Life of the Virgin in 1291. In the Nativity scene, note the little building just under the figure of Mary with a stream of oil flowing from it.
• Left of the altar is the Altemps Chapel (1588) with Baroque decoration. One of the frescoes depicts the Council of Nicea. Another notable artwork is a fresco by Domenichino of the Assumption of the Virgin.
• The church keeps a relic of Saint Apollonia (her head) and a portion of the Holy Sponge. Among the burials in the church are Pope Callixtus I and Lorenzo Cardinal Campeggio.

Lodging

These recommendations are from third parties. I do not have any information about these places. Take the recommendations but make allowance for the fact that tastes vary and you may find a different experience than what you read here.

• The Beverly Hills hotel is a very nice hotel. It is about 1 1/2 miles East of Via Veneto, a very nice street where the US Embassy is, and perhaps about two miles from the Spanish Steps.
• Albergo del Senato: a luxury 3 star hotel located in the heart of the ancient city of Rome. This charming hotel in Rome's center is situated in Piazza della Rotonda, an excellent location directly in front of the Pantheon, Rome's most renowned ancient temple, originally built in dedication to the Roman Gods in 27 BC and later rebuilt during the reign of the famous Emperor Hadrian.

Click here to look for more Rome lodging links in the database

Gelato

These recommendations are from third parties. I do not have any information about these places. Take the recommendations but make allowance for the fact that tastes vary and you may find a different experience than what you read here.

Gelateria Della Palma A block or so north of the Pantheon. Big brash place with over 100 flavors of ice cream. Fabulous!
10Best Review: Gelateria Della Palma's interior decor somewhat mimics a 1950s American Soda Shop, but the Italian flair is still abundant. Situated near the Pantheon, this café has the largest and most colourful (though that is not necessarily a good thing) selection of gelato in town. There are 20 different types of chocolate alone. With so many flavors you can't begin to try them all!

Giolitti Tearoom and gelateria. Has 70 wonderful flavors of gelato.
10Best Review: Gelateria Giolitti is one of Rome's most famous cafés for gelato. It originally opened in 1900 and since that time has been a gathering place for artists, families, workers, politicians (just down the street from Montecitorio, the Italian parliament) and tourists. This is a great place to get your hands on that famous Italian treat, and while you're at it why not try the Coppa Olimpica filled with zabaione (made with eggs and Marsala fortified wine), hazelnut and chocolate flavours! Bus: 116.

Gelateria Cremeria Monteforte
10Best Review: Beside the Pantheon, this small, family-run gelateria has won awards for its homemade (artigianale) ice creams. The rich fig and pistachio flavors stand out, as does the chocolate sorbet. Don't let the crowds scare you away; this place is definitely worth the wait. Bus: 116.

Il Gelato di San Crispino
10Best Review: Arguably Rome's best ice cream (and definitely among the top five), San Crispino's gelato has no preservatives. Paper cups rule here (cones contaminate the taste, according to the founders, the Alongi brothers). Their signature flavor is a basic Italian crema made with wild Sardinian honey. Other blends include cinnamon and ginger, and a range of pure fruit sorbets. Consume your treasured coppa in front of the nearby Trevi Fountain, crowds permitting. Metro: Barberini. Bus: 116.

Click here to look for more Rome dining links in the database

Dining

These recommendations are from third parties. I do not have any information about these places. Take the recommendations but make allowance for the fact that tastes vary and you may find a different experience than what you read here.

Some tips:

• Types of restaurants:
• Ristorante: A more formal restaurant
• Trattoria: More casual and usually less expensive
• Hosteria: Usually a local hangout with no menu
• Tavola Calda: Snack bar or "cold table"
• Pizzeria forno a legno: Wood oven pizzeria, usually thin crust

Pizza in Rome
Lazio style: Pizza in Lazio (Rome), as well as in many other parts of Italy, is available in two different styles:

1. Take-away shops sell pizza rustica or pizza al taglio. This pizza is cooked in long, rectangular baking pans and relatively thick (1-2 cm). The crust is similar to that of an English muffin, and the pizza is often cooked in an electric oven. It is usually cut with scissors or a knife and sold by weight.
2. In pizza restaurants (pizzerias), pizza is served in a dish in its traditional round shape. It has a thin, crisp base quite different from the thicker and softer Neapolitan style base. It is usually cooked in a wood-fired oven, giving the pizza its unique flavor and texture.

In Rome, a pizza napoletana is topped with tomato, mozzarella, anchovies and oil (thus, what in Naples is called pizza romana, in Rome is called pizza napoletana).

Eating on a Budget in Rome from Parla Food blog

The Best Restaurants in Rome as Picked By Romans - 2008/2009 from LifeInItaly.com

Click here to look for more Rome dining links in the database

Some places to eat:

via Simeto. 34
Telephone:

• Trattoria Al Simeto Some of the best pasta in ALL of Italy is at a little place called Trattoria Al Simeto, located at Via Simeto 34. It is likely that you will be the only tourists in the place. You can't get in until about 7:00 PM at the earliest. (Italians each much later than Americans do, usually). The house wine is cheap and exellent, so drink all you can with dinner. Great service, and friendly, and almost no English is spoken, but you will still do very well!
  If you ask your hotel for a restaurant recommendation, they will probably send you to a place that is for tourists. Food is okay, but very touristy. Try the Al Simeto instead.



via Marmorata, 47
Telephone:

• Volpetti, the Oasi della Birra and the Peroni cantina Arguably the best cheese shop in Rome and the Oasi della Birra are 50 yards apart in a part of Rome called Testaccio. Take the underground line B to 'Piramide' and head for the pyramid. Volpetti, the cheese shop, is on via Marmorata just past the pyramid, and the Oasi (Piazza Testaccio, 38/41, Rome IT, 00153) is just round the corner.
  There are no working breweries in Rome as far as we know but the old 'Peroni' beer factory is still at Porta Pia and part of a huge complex which is now a mix or shops, offices, markets etc. Do head to the Peroni cantina near the Savoy cinema (via Bergamo, 17, Rome IT, 00198) where you can sample the Riserve beer and eat sausage and mash in a 1920's atmosphere.



Largo dei Librari
Telephone:

• Filetti di Baccala Near the Campo de Fiori. Wonderful and cheap. Lots of locals.
• Fodor's Review: For years, Filetti di Baccalà has been serving just that -- battered, deep-fried fillets of salt cod -- and not much else. You'll find no-frills starters such as bruschette al pomodoro (garlic-rubbed toast topped with fresh tomatoes and olive oil), sautéed zucchini, and, in winter months, the cod is served alongside puntarelle, chicory stems topped with a delicious anchovy-garlic-lemon vinaigrette. The location, down the street from Campo de' Fiori in a little piazza in front of the beautiful Santa Barbara church, begs you to eat at one of the outdoor tables, weather permitting. Long operating hours allow those still on U.S. time to eat as early (how gauche!) as 6 PM.



Campo De Fiori, 23
Telephone: 06.6864783
E-mail: info@la-carbonara.it

• La Carbonara Exactly under Giordano Bruno's eyes! Traditional Roman. Inexpensive.
• From the web site: Unlikely from what one could imagine, the restaurant's name does not derive from the famous Roman meal, even if penne alla Carbonara (pasta cooked alla Carbonara) is one of its most typical specialities. The restaurant's name is due to the fact that Mrs. Andreina Salomone's father, the restaurant's mainstay, at the beginning of last century had in the same neighbourhood a shop where he used to sell coal. One day he decided to open, close to its shop, an inn called Il Carbonaro (The Coal-seller). When Andreina began managing the inn and then, when she married, decided to move to Campo de' Fiori square, fairly changed the inn's name in La Carbonara, anyway, without changing traditions, family habits and meals, like carbonara and amatriciana, abbacchio scottadito, trippa, coda alla vaccinara, animelle, fritto misto, torta di ricotta and torta di mele.



Piazza De Ricci, 144
Telephone: 06 686 8717

• Ristorante Pierluigi a Roma, dal 1938. A few meters away from Piazza Farnese and Piazza Campo dei Fiori. Known for antipasto and fish. Moderate.
• From the web site: On Pierluigi's menu we find selected plates among the best that the Italian cuisine offers, for diversity and lightness, equally distributed between the earth and the sea. To begin with for example the suppressed octopus, the Roman way artichokes, or fresh bufala cheese from the Campania region. To follow, bombolotti with European lobster, tagliolini with zucchini flowers, roast brill with potatoes, and king prawns with wine.



via del Biscione, 73/74
Telephone: 06 68803686

• Grotte del Teatro Di Pompeo Around the corner from Campo de Fiori, over the theater where Julius Ceasar met his destiny. A great place. Inexpensive.
• The web site is in Italian only.
  TravelMuse Review: Just a hop and a skip away from Camp de Fiori, this outstanding restaurant was built on the site of the ancient theatre of Pompey (where Julius Caesar was killed in 44 BCE). In fact it actually incorporates parts of the theatre's structure into its own! The staff will make you feel like family, and you might find yourself over-eating lest your surrogate Italian mother scold you. Broad menu with lots of variety but if you're a fish enthusiast this locale is especially for you! —Aubrie Talarico



Piazza della Cancelleria, 75
Telephone: 06 6871626

• Ditirambo Cucina Italiana Very popular and friendly place close to Campo de Firori (about a block north). Delicious homemade pasta to include vegetarian dishes, and regional Italian specialties. High side of moderate.
• From the web site: To Campo de Fiori in the heart of Rome a delightful restaurant which offers a tasty Italian cuisine, with a good cellar. The restaurant Ditirambo born from experience completely different; Dado, Thu member of a Roman enoteca note the Cavour 313, Beatrice antiquarian and Luke, active in the field of marketing. The restaurant, cozy, was restored respecting its old structure with beamed ceiling and its old stone arch bearing a vista.Appena entered is a flag of peace (with autograph of the poet Patti Smith) and a simple, caldo.Nel but respect for tradition.



via Beniamino Franklin, 9
Telephone:

• Rist'Oria (approximately a block north and a couple blocks east of Ponte Testaccio) Nearby in Testaccio are many nightclubs. New place, very creative menu that is mostly organic products. Excellent. Moderate.
• Yahoo Travel Review: This restaurant is located in the busiest and best-loved district in Rome and is a traditional haunt of celebrities. The cooking is typically Italian with a dash of innovation. The Piedmontese 'agnolotti' with handmade pastry are excellent. Then there are typical Tuscan dishes which are also tempting. Wash it down with a bottle from the well-stocked Cantina Banfi and admire the attractive, rustic decor. Property Information by Wcities



via della Vaccarella, 3/5
Telephone: 06 6865554

• Myosotis By the Pantheon. Lovely and welcoming. Food and wine to die for. Reasonable prices.
• Slow Travel Review: I had such a wonderful meal here two years ago, I can close my eyes and still remember the grilled veal sweetbreads, drizzled with olive oil and a few drops of balsamico. They have a great wine list and really nice service, and are in a lively piazza that is great for people-watching, if you choose to sit outside.
  (Stella)



via del Monte della Farina
Telephone: 06 6869473

• La Tartaruga (The Turtle) Just off the 8 tram line in Largo Argentina (south of the Pantheon. Intersection of via di T. Argentina & Emanuele II). Great fish, pasta. Reasonable prices.
• IGoUGo Review: I had dinner two nights in a row at the same restaurant—I've never done that anywhere before. La Tartaruga, via Monte della Farina. That's a small street that starts next to the church of St Andrea della Valle, immediately south of Corso Vittorio Emmanuelle, near the Pantheon/Piazza Navona area. What a great little restaurant! It is family-run, and the same family owns a farm in Tuscany where they produce their own olive oil and wine vinegar. All the food was outstanding on both nights (the second night I went with some new acquaintances) and as simple as it sounds, the mandarine (tangerine) sorbet was to die for. Reasonable prices.
  by travelerstogodotcom from New York, New York



via del Pantheon, 55
Telephone: 06 6792788

• Da Fortunato Al Pantheon Excellent. Try the pasta with shrimp or linguine al pescatore. Moderate.
• From the web site (which is mostly in Italian): In the beautiful heart of Rome, near The Pantheon, Da Fortunato restaurant assures a taste of the best italian traditional food, with the elegance and comfort of its wonderful location. Traditional italian food, the best choice of fish, meat and the most delicious pasta dishes you'll ever have. Home made pastry, wonderful wine cellar.



via delle Coppelle 6
Telephone: 06 6879389

• Quinzi e Gabrieli Reservations essential. A couple of streets north of the Piazza della Rotunda where the Pantheon is. This is a Michelin-starred restaurant reputed to be the best seafood restaurant in Rome and possibly all of Italy. Spaghetti with lobster is exquisite, as is the sea bass, shrimp, etc. Very expensive, but exquisite quality and service.
• From the web site: Alberto and Enrico, that is Quinzi and Gabrieli, have been together all their lives, apart from their friendship born a long time ago. They come from the town of Amatrice and as youths came to the capital Rome where they worked hard, learning all the secrets of the profession. Their philosophy is, and has always been, the enhancement of the products of our territory and the excellent fish from our seas. Hence few ingredients, but of good quality, which exalt the fragrance of the seas. The cuisine philosophy is directed towards respecting and above all exalting the taste of exquisitely freshly caught fish. The typical ingredients of the Mediterranean cuisine are used which may range from olive oil made from 'Taggiasche' olives, to lemons from Amalfi, onions from Tropea and above all fish from our seas ranging from Sicilian tuna fish to Sardinian lobsters. The fish is cooked as little as possible and always to enhance its flavour without penalising its taste. All food is cooked in our own kitchens in front of our clients—straight from the fish tanks to the Chef's pots.
• Food & Wine Review: One of the most delicious aspects of Italian cooking is an expertly prepared Mediterranean seafood meal, and this is the best place in Rome to have one. You'll close your eyes and thank King Neptune over and over as each enormous, exquisite plate appears, such as the sauté di vongole antipasto, where each little bivalve marries perfectly with its garlicky broth, or the moscardini and baby tomato pasta, which includes as many miniature octopi as there are penne, and both are cooked to the same al dente perfection. Attentive and discreet service hits perfect levels of approachability and formality, and your fellow diners may well include Hollywood stars such as Cameron Diaz and Susan Sarandon, as well as high-profile politicians. And if that isn't enough, expect an especially sophisticated setting—Quinzi e Gabrieli enlisted the Academy of Fine Arts to help decorate. The three rooms have hand-painted murals, based on methods used in the 18th century; each room has a different subject: "Sunrise at Portofino," "Sunset at Capri," "Night-time at Elba."
  Insider Tip: A la carte prices are daunting here, but the lunchtime prix fixe menus are more reasonable and include a welcome Prosecco, a glass of wine, and for dessert: a glass of Vin Santo and a gluttonous procession of gelato, bonbons, biscotti, and fresh fruit.



via delle Colonnelle
Telephone:

• Trattoria Da Vito, on , one block north of the Pantheon. The street is really a small alley that runs parallel to the Pantheon. Look for the green neon Trattoria sign. Small inside and a few tables outside. Grandma cooks in the kitchen. Outstanding home cooking of high quality. Fixed price menu available and are of terrific value. The saltambocca Romana (veal with prosciutto) is excellent.

Centro Storico, 30-35
Piazza Navona
Telephone: 06 6879148

• Tre Scalini (Three Steps) An incredible taste sensation.
• From the web site: The unique romantic atmosphere where tradition of Roman cuisine meets the fine taste of fresh fish with a selection of meats leaving an unforgettable memory of Rome.



via Tor Millina 27
Telephone:

• Big Apple Two blocks west of Piazza Navona. Best lasagna the poster had ever eaten. Lasagna was 8,000 lira, delectable plum cheesecake was 10,000 and coffee was 3,000. GOOD!



Vicolo della Campana 18
Telephone: 06 6867820

• La Campana A quarter mile (400 meters) northeast of Piazza Navona, near the river. Traditional Roman cuisine. One of the oldest restaurants in the heart of Rome. Delicious food. Inexpensive to moderate.
• From the web site: The most ancient restaurant in the capital. A few steps from the splendid frame of Piazza Navona and from the Pantheon, La Campana is the ideal destination for the lovers of the good cooking and the walks to discovery of historical-artistic beauties offered by the capital.



Piazza Navonna
Telephone:

• Trattoria Nonna Romana, in (or near?) Piazza Navonna. If you watch the Food Channel, this is one of Molto Mario's favorites in Rome.



Piazza Barberini
Telephone: 06 483511

• Hostoria Romana Near Piazza Barberini.
• VirtualTourist Review: Completely unpretentious, and highly authentic, this simple yet exquisite trattoria is a Roman gem. It is located in a narrow side street a short walk from Piazza Barberini (at the bottom of Via Veneto) hidden from heavy traffic. Although some tourists seem to have known about, Italians also dine here, as it serves authentic and delicious traditional Roman cuisine at very reasonable prices. The antipasti are heavenly and the pasta perfectly prepared. I so want to return here again and again!



Piazza di Montevecchio, 22a
Telephone: 06 6861319

• Montevecchio Great atmosphere with traditional Roman dishes, as well as fresh seasonal dishes. Moderate.
• DiningCity.com Review: In downtown Rome, just a short walk away from Piazza Navona and via de' Coronari, strolling down the old cobblestone alleys between ancient wooden ceilinged and frescoed buildings and squinting your eyes against the setting sun, you will discover the Montevecchio restaurant, where you will be received with elegance and friendliness. Start your oenogastronomical journey in the terraced dining room of this simple but stylish restaurant, housed in a 15th century building and set on a picturesque square. The owner, Mrs Anna Maria Tozzi, will let you discover many delicacies, unique fragrances, prime meats, fish from the catch of the day, and home made sweets. The Neapolitan chef, with his Mediterranean creativity, will take you to the colourful world of sun baked Southern Italy.



via di Ripetta, 32
Telephone: 06 3214883

• Al Gran Sasso Two or three blocks south of Piazza Popolo. Typical Roman dishes, all great, and cooked by Momma in her blue apron and slippers. Leave room for the homemade apple pie. Inexpensive.
• The web site is in Italian only. There is a button for English, but it doesn't work.
  Review from Europe on a Plate from The Age: The famous Rosati in Piazza del Popolo is now full of rude waiters and bad coffee, and dal Bolognese next door is extremely good but extremely expensive. So take a slow walk from the piazza along Via di Ripetta to the modest little Trattoria Al Gran Sasso. Whatever food is shown in the window is what you should be eating, whether it is fresh razor clams, porcini mushrooms or gleaming sea bass. Mimma Persi and her husband, Ugo, came from the Abruzzo to open Trattoria Al Gran Sasso 36 years ago. These days she has a little help with the cooking, while sons Giuseppe and Andrea tend the floor.
  At lunch you sit in the modestly muralled dining room surrounded by noisy local teachers and shopkeepers wolfing down pasta alla matriciana and pasta e ceci (thick pasta and chickpea soup). On fish days (Tuesday and Saturday), order mussels sauteed in white wine that taste sweetly of the sea. A fritto misto of fried calamari and prawns is very nearly as good, while a huge pile of spaghetti monte e mare with guanciale (pork cheek) and clams puts a whole new spin on surf-and-turf. Finish on Mimma's famous apple cake, and pay a bill so small you will feel silly. No, you won't. You will just feel very well-fed, and not a little smug.



via Amiterno Gabi 38
Telephone: 06 77206792

• Alfredo A Via Gabi A few blocks west of the Piazza dei Re di Roma. Closed Tuesdays and all of August. Traditional Roman. Inexpensive
• Review from TripVinz (translated by freetranslation.com): I furnish of period years '50; excellent Roman (pasta and chickpeas to the padellotto; pine nuts endive toasted bread uvetta; pasta and bean with shellfish).



via del Cardello, 1
Telephone: 06 4745259

• Ristorante al Cardello About 300 meters north of the Colosseum near the corner of Cavour and Cardello. Very small and family style. Great food. Wonderful. Reasonable prices.
• Review from IGoUGo: When searching for a restaurant to eat lunch in the vicinity of the Colosseum, we almost accidentally stumble down the steps into the Ristorante Al Cardello. This small but renowned restaurant can seat perhaps up to 20 people. Since it is a Monday and off season, we find ourselves the only guests. The restaurant staff speaks a few words of English, and we can barely manage a few words of Italian. So we let them decide what we should eat.
  A few minutes later the proprietess comes along with a plate filled with tasty marinated vegetables, like cooked onions, potatoes, mushrooms and peppers. When we are finished with the antipasti, the cook himself, an older man with a stained apron (conforming to the typical "Italian Papa" image), comes to inform us that the next course should be fettuccini. He promises us: "Fettucini, nice". We agree to the pasta and are served shortly with a plate filled with fettuccini, sauce and Parmesan cheese.
  We finish the meal with the main course, chicken. Not used to such a big lunch, we decide to skip dessert and have a cappucino instead.



via della Croce, 81
Telephone: 06 6791178

• Otello A little bit north then turn west from the Piazza di Spagna. Dine in an enclosed garden under the grape vines or inside. Locals love the place. Fried artichokes, delicious baked chicken, large menu. Moderate.
• The web site is in Italian only.
  Review from Frommer's: On a side street amid the glamorous boutiques near the northern edge of the Spanish Steps lies one of Rome's most consistently reliable restaurants. A stone corridor from the street leads into the dignified Palazzo Povero. Choose a table in the arbor-covered courtyard or the cramped but convivial dining rooms. Displays of Italian bounty decorate the interior. The spaghetti alle vongole veraci (with clams) is excellent, as are Roman-style saltimbocca (veal with ham), abbacchio arrosto (roast lamb), eggplant parmigiana, a selection of grilled or sautéed fish dishes (including swordfish), and several preparations of veal.



via della Croce, 20/21
Telephone: 06

• Ristorante Birreria Viennese It is across the street and up a little from the Otello. This place has excellent pasta, but also has a variety of dishes, to include some Austrian/German style foods. Inside seating only, to include a nice upstairs area (a couple tables outside are for drinks only).
• Review from My Travel Guide: Opened in 1939 by a family originally from Graz, this trattoria offers delicacies from the Central European region that once belonged to the Austro-Hungarian empire. The majority of the dishes on the menu are available throughout the day. The Austrian Spatzle, Hungarian Goulash, Gnocco in Tyrolean broth, the Transylvania wooden platter which comprises barbecued meat, vegetables, fried potatoes, frankfurters and bacon are very tasty. The Strudel and Sacher Torte desserts are delicious. Beers and wines from the Tyrol and Alto Adige are also very good. It is advisable to book for evening meals.



via Luca della Robbia, 15
Telephone: 06 5750279

• Luna Piena About three-fourths mile north east of Hotel Beverly Hills, off of via Salaria. A delightful place, with a varied Roman menu. Inexpensive.
• Review from Yahoo Travel: Situated in the heart of Testaccio, this traditional Roman restaurant serves first-course dishes such as mashed broad beans with chicory, homemade potato dumplings, and ravioli with different types of filling depending on the season. Second courses may include turkey with chestnuts and olives, straccetti with artichokes, stuffed rabbit and many more. The cakes are delicious, especially the orange cake with forest fruit. Coffee is prepared with traditional moka and is served with traditional biscuits. It is possible to eat outside and the staff are friendly.



Vicolo Scanderbeg, 112
Telephone: 06 6786139

• Piccolo Arancio A block east of the Trevi Fountain, on a very small street. It is charming, down a very narrow alley. You really have to look for the street, as it is little more than a footpath just big enough for a small car to traverse. Charming trattoria with "Rome" written all over it. Try the pasta with eggplant, but all is good. Inexpensive.
• Review from Yahoo Travel: The restaurant is not far from the Fontana di Travi in an almost hidden alleyway that is well-sheltered. Unfortunately it is hard to find parking in the area. The restaurant is pleasant with an excellent location and is professionally run. You can come in for post theatre dining on request. There are plenty of regulars who come here for the excellent Fritters, the Ossobuco and the Abbacchio and on holy fish-eating days, Tuesdays and Fridays, there is a predominance of seafood. There are some special dishes such as the Farfalle with Courgettes and Curry. Round it all off with delicious dessert like the lemon mousse.



via dei Maronitiv 32
Telephone: 06 6789919

• Trattoria della Stampa A block off via del Tritone, and a couple blocks northeast of the Trevi Fountain, on a small street. (This small street intersects via Della Panetteria and runs parallel to Tritone). Unassuming spot, with savory Roman dishes from Italian grandmothers. Great pastas. Locals galore. Open for LUNCH only. Inexpensive.
• Review from Yubuk (translated by freetranslation.com):
  (There is an English version, but it had no review.)
  To little steps from the seat of the Messenger of road of the Triton it rises this restaurant to familiar management, small, (therefore the reservation is advised) and with a not very varied menu, but quite realized and done with genuine ingredients. Antipasto of toasted breads, pork and cheeses, first like risotto to the pig mushrooms or fettuccini to the juice, seconds of meat (pizzaiola and I roast of calf with potatoes). Between the sweets a mousse to the made chocolate at home.



via del Boschetta, 30
Telephone: 06 6789919

• Ristorante Crisciotti al Boschetta Off via Nazionale, near the train station. Eat in the garden. Local fish, fettuccini with artichokes, not too touristy.



via Tornino, 33
Telephone: 06 4740066

• Ristorante Target Not far from the Termini. Great pizza and pasta dishes.
• From the web site: Target Restaurant is located in downtown Rome, close to Termini Central Station, to the Opera House and the most important historical and artistic sites such as Via Veneto or the Trevi Fountain. Target proposes an atmosphere of class with ethnic colors and chic details, gourmets and lovers of the goodness gastronomic are welcome. In our Menu you will find tasty and original dishes. Target Restaurant counts more than 205 seats on two floors and it's the perfect spot for your next business gathering, a romantic dinner or a meal with your family. Live music prolongs in plesant way your evening on weekends.



via Vicenza, 44
Telephone: 06

• Trattoria L. Leioni d'Abruzzo Four blocks north east of the Termini. Great dinners and reasonable.
• Review from Trip Advisor: We ate here our first night in Rome when an almighty rainstorm had broken out. This place was close to our hotel and didn't have pushy staff waiting outside. We had a very nice meal of brushcetta and risotto with white wine which didn't cost us only 20 euro each. It was a good restaurant but definitely not the best we ate in while in Rome. However, it was close to our hotel, cheap and tasty so we were happy with our meal there. — mirax



via Carlo Alberto, 45
Telephone: 06 4466115

• Agata e Romeo Behind Santa Maria Maggiore, and between Termini and the Coliseum. Reservations essential. Very elegant and impeccable restaurant, family run. Specialty in traditional Roman and southern Italian cuisine. Only the best ingredients are used. For desert, try the millefoglie oozing with almonds and cream. Expensive.
• From the web site: How appetizer the house offers good warm pizza bread and full salty cakes of vegetable and ricotta, among the first numerous dishes of the Roman tradition as pasta and broccolis in broth of arzilla (razza) and bucatini all'matriciana...
  They appear to have a small menu, large wine list and also offer cooking classes.



via della Pelliccia, 47
Telephone: 06 5896848

• Da Otello, in the Trastevere section of Rome. Exquisite pasta.



via della Tribuna di Campitelli, 16
Telephone: 06 6864604

• Vecchia Roma Very beautiful setting and affordable. Inside is breathtaking, and also a beautiful patio. Signature dish is fish with a red tomato sauce that is unbelievable.
• From the web site: Piazza Campitelli, near the Campidoglio (The Capitoline Hill) is a square where you can really feel the atmosphere of ancient times. Its buildings are situated all around the scenographic facade of the Santa Maria Church. The Restaurant is situated in an elegant building who was projected by Vincenzo della Greca and Filippo Raguzzini. Since 1870 the restaurant, owned by the Palladino brothers, has been famous for its delicateness and sophistication. Giuseppe and Tonino Palladino are glad to provide their clients with the results of their gastronomic research, which deals with their personal taste but is also careful to the different kinds of product the seasons offer.



Vicolo del cinque, 52/56
Telephone: 06 5817706

• Il Duca Around the corner from Piazza Santo Egido and behind Piazza Santa Maria in the Trastevere area. Excellent lasagna and spaghetti.
• Review from Woody's Restaurant Lists: This is one of Audrey's favorite places in Trestevere. It is right down from Il Ciak. They have the wonderful thin crust pizzas and a well priced menu of pastas. It is casual and welcoming for airline crews so mention you are crew. The interior looks very nice and inviting but we chose to eat outside on a lovely summer evening. They use salt liberally but I love salt. I had the pasta primavera. We shared grilled artichokes. For a big group or a casual bite stop here.



Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere, 3
Telephone: 06 5803775

• Galeassi Delicious. Known for seafood. Tiramisu is exceptional for dessert. Moderate
• Review from RestaurantOMH: Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere is another of those magic places where you can watch daily life Roman-style, despite the tourists in this picturesque quarter. The menu includes some classic Roman dishes. As antipasta, carciofi Romanesca, for example — small whole artichokes perfectly cooked in wine and herbs (€5), though our Roman friend might sniff that there wasn't much mentuccia in evidence. A misunderstanding brought asparagi con burro instead of the expected carpaccio di pesce spada, but it was a very happy accident. The asparagus was young, fresh and delicious — a real treat and an absolute bargain at €5. Our secondi di carne (€12) each came garnished with a portion of funghi porcini — a nice gesture, though the texture was a little uneven. My scallopine al limone was good — tender veal, very tart lemon — as was saltimbocca alla Romana. — Helen Wright, 2/2004



via Benedetta, 10/13
Telephone: 06 5800985

• Checco er Carrettiere A couple blocks southwest from Ponte Sisto. Traditional, with dining in a garden. Moderate to expensive.
• The web site is in Italian only.
  From the web site, translated by freetranslation.com: In the splendid frame of Trastevere, one of the most attractive districts and characteristics of the Rome ancient, is distinguished Checco er Carettiere, a restaurant where tradition and culture of the food unite themselves in a be disgusted and family environment. In the local of the restaurant, it shine through the experience of three generations that you have handed down those culinary speciality that be able to find and to enjoy in the dishes served. A definite kitchen "poor" but full of tastes, that in the Papal period fed whole families of the more popular than classes came characterized from the so-called one "fifth fourth", being equivalent to it some parts except for fine of the animal, like interiora, tripe, paiata, tail...



via dei Vascellari, 48
Telephone: 06 5898985

• Ristorante Asinocotto A block or so southwest of Ponte Palatino. Reservations needed. A small cozy place with dishes such as handmade eggplant ravioli and veal sirloin au gratin. Creative dishes. Excellent. A place where locals go. Reasonable prices.
• Frommer's Review: Within a pair of cramped dining rooms (one on street level, the other upstairs), you'll be served by a cheerful staff that's well practiced in hauling steaming platters of food up the steep flight of stairs. The simple white-painted walls accented by dark timbers and panels are a nice background to the flavorful dishes that stream from the busy kitchens of Giuliano Brenna. The menu is fairly sophisticated, thanks to the owner's stint as a chef at the Hotel Eden, one of Rome's more upscale hotels. Look for elaborate antipasti such as quail and watercress in a "Parmesan basket," or marinated salmon with fresh cucumbers and pistachio nuts. You might follow with handmade ravioli filled with sea bass, lettuce, and a sauvignon sauce, or a zesty oxtail soup with artichoke hearts au gratin. Other imaginative dishes that enthralled us were duck roasted with five spices and served in a maple syrup sauce, and the baked grouper with a shellfish-laced leek sauce flavored with fresh rosemary. The restaurant's name, incidentally, translates as "cooked donkey meat," but don't look for that on the menu anytime soon.



via Farmagosta
Telephone: 06

• Il Calibri pizzaria, via Farmagosta at via Leone IV, near the Vatican. Gorgonzola ravioli, fried squash blossoms.



via Leone IV, 29
Telephone: 06

• Hostaria dei Bastioni Great mussels and pasta.
• Frommer's Review: This simple but well-managed restaurant is about a minute's walk from the entrance to the Vatican Museums. Although a warm-weather terrace doubles the size during summer, many diners prefer the inside room as an escape from the roaring traffic. The menu features the staples of Rome's culinary repertoire, including fisherman's risotto (a broth-simmered rice dish studded with fresh fish, usually shellfish), a vegetarian fettuccine alla bastione with orange-flavored creamy tomato sauce, an array of grilled fresh fish, and cutlets of tender beef with mushrooms. The food is first-rate — and a real bargain at these prices.



via Lucrezio Caro, 16
Telephone: 06

• Prestige Café On the Vatican side of the river (several blocks from the Vatican), but just a couple blocks from the river, & a few blocks from Ponte Margherita. Waiters nice and food great. VERY reasonable.
• Review from Rick Steves' Europe: Took a trip to Italy in April. Had a great time. Wonderful restaurant in Rome — Prestige Café, Via Lucrezio Caro 16. Waiters were very nice and food was great. $36.00 for 5 people with everything. — Tammy



via Cicerone, 62/A
Telephone: 06 3234586

• Ristorante Pizzeria Grotta Azzurra Quartiere Prati. Across from Hotel Isa and Hotel Cicerone (on the Vatican side of the river, and north of Ponte Umberto, not far from Piazza Cavour). Small family run. Tour groups are put in the back grotto, and locals in the front. Extensive and seasonal menu. Excellent! Moderate.
• The web site is in Italian only.
  From the web site, translated by freetranslation.com: In the district Meadows, near Castel S. Angelo and to little steps from the town of the Vatican, the tradition bell and particularly that cilentana alive lieutenant comes thanks to the brothers Pietro and Giovanni Cammarano in their characteristic restaurant "Blue Cave". Here than for a long time years satisfy the palates of their customer base now become international, and therefore more demanding and adulterated. The familiar management welcomes yourselves in a simple environment, but refined, instigator to the sailor's landscape of the island of billy Goats. The efficiency and the liking of the personal one will put yourselves to your comfort and will do the possible one to give back your permanence to the "Blue Cave" an evening to remember.



via degli Avignonesi, 22
Telephone: 06 4817538

• Colline Emiliane Near Piazza Barberini at the south end of via Veneto. Excellent food at reasonable (but NOT cheap) prices. A place where locals go but few tourists have found it. A place for food lovers.
• Review from 10Best: This is a small, family-run restaurant featuring Emiliana-Romagna cuisine. The inviting atmosphere and friendly service is a nice respite from the bustling streets of Rome. Menu selections offer a wide variety of dishes with homemade pastas. Tortellini in brodo (tortellini in broth) and ravioli di zucca (pumpkin ravioli) are the house specialties. Reservations recommended. METRO: Barberini



via Aurora, 39
Telephone: 06 42016034

• Il Piccolo Mondo Osteria Romana Just off the Via Veneto up near the U.S. Embassy. Start out with mozzarella balls in cream sauce.
• From the web site: Restaurant placed in the heart of Rome since 1954. It became famous in the 60's for its international movie star guests. Today, all renovated, offers a Mediterranean innovative cuisine made of excellent quality products.



Piazza San Callisto, 7/a
Telephone: 06 5815378

• Paris Moderate to Expensive
• Review from DiningCity.com: The Paris restaurant is situated in the heart of Trastevere in a 1600 century building, located just a few steps from the famous Santa Maria in Trastevere square. The three dining rooms have characteristic wooden ceilings and a classical but informal setting. The menu offers traditional Italian cuisine and a good selection of fish, but the specialities of the house are typical Roman dishes. On the wine list you will find a selection of more than 300 labels and if you desire you can visit the wine cellar. In summertime it is possible to lunch or dine on the terrace and appreciate the cosy atmosphere of this historical and typical part of Rome.



via Genova, 32
Telephone: 06 4881107

• Est!Est!Est! (Antica Pizzeria Fratelli Ricci) Intersects with via Nationale several blocks south of Vie Veneto, and west of Termini Station. One of Rome's finest and oldest pizzerias. Very popular with locals. Good pasta, and great calzoni. Inexpensive.
• Review from 10Best: Named after a wine, this is one of Rome's most traditional pizzerias with an alluring if rather faded art nouveau interior. Family owned and operated, the restaurant has been serving thick-crusted pizza cooked in a pan (unique in Rome) since the 1930s. Popular for its calzoni ripieni (stuffed pizza). METRO: Republica; BUS: Via Nazionale.

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